Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids from wool

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COSMETIC EFFECTIVENESS OF TOPICALLY APPLIED HYDROLYSED KERATIN PEPTIDES AND LIPIDS DERIVED FROM WOOL C. BARBA, S. MÉNDEZ, A. RODDICK-LANZILOTTA, R. KELLY, J.L. PARRA and L. CODERCH Skin Research and Technology 2008; 14: 243-248

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INTRODUCTION WOOL Complex macromolecular structure composed primarily of keratin proteins COMPOSITION External lipids Internal wool lipids (IWL) No keratin proteins Keratin proteins (85-95%) Give wool desirable properties such as strength, insolubility and moisture regain. Rich in cholesterol, free fatty acids, cholesterol sulphate and ceramides. Form liposomes with stable bilayer structure.

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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION SORPTION-DESORPTION TEST Higher values of initial absorption of water and a greater capacity for retention observed for the areas treated with the keratin samples.

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CONCLUSIONS The beneficial effect of application of the wool keratin peptide samples on healthy skin has been demonstrated with improved hydration and elasticity. The moisture sorption-desorption profile obtained showed higher values of initial absorption of water for the skin zones treated with the two keratin formulations. Higher skin elasticity values were obtained following treatment with the IWL liposomes. Hydrolysed peptides derived from wool may be applied alone or combined with wool internal lipids structured as liposomes improving in both cases the hydration, elasticity and moisture sorption-desorption profile. CONCLUSIONS

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